Cardiopelma cf. mascatum (Orange Flame Rump) Care Sheet
Reaching a maximum of about 2 1/2" DLS this lovely little tarantula is a lot of WOW in a little package. I just about fell over the first time I saw an adult female. I do not believe photos can do it justice. You just have to see this one in person.
On their carapace they have a triangle reminiscent of B. emilia. Their knees are striped and their banded legs have some structural blues. If that's not enough, all the way around their abdomen they've got what looks like orange flames burning over a black background.
Their unique colors and patterns are just icing on the cake. These tiny tarantulas are surprisingly hardy and vigorous. Specimens over 1" or so are not out of reach for a beginner.
What is cf? Cf is the abbreviated latin confer (which means ‘to evaluate’) In short, this means the specimen has most of defining characteristics of the species indicated and thus is a likely candidate. We are currently waiting to see if these specimens collected from Oaxaca, Mexico are truly one and the same as the Cardiopelma mascatum originally described in 1999.
Cardiopelma cf. mascatum have been found to occur in the mountains and borders south-east of Oaxaca City. While there is a seasonal wet period, most of the year the climate can be quite dry.
Currently they are quite rare in the hobby. We hope to have this amazing species available more often.
Origin: New World. Current hobby specimens of "Cardiopelma cf. mascatum" are native to Oaxaca, Mexico.
Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate
Type: Terrestrial
Adult Size: 2-2 1/2"
Growth speed: Medium
Longevity: Males 4-6 years, females 8-16 years
Temperament: I find they can be skittish and may flee and will sometimes flick hairs if disturbed. Bites are rare and not considered medically significant.
Bite potency: Mild
Urticating hairs: Yes
Ideal Temperature: 70 to 75°
Humidity: Low to Medium
Fun Fact: Currently the only Cardiopelma there is still some uncertainty about the proper name of the specimens circulating in the hobby. It's exciting to have something so new and unique they we're just beginning to learn about.
Enclosure: Good ventilation is a must and safety should be a top priority when choosing and designing your tarantulas enclosure. The enclosure should not be too tall as to give such a heavy species an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4″ we recommend the 2.25 x 2.25 x 4.5” - Terrestrial Kit. For specimens over 1″ to about 2″ we recommend the 4x4x6” - Terrestrial Kit - Magnetic Lock or the 4x4x5 Classic Porthole.
Specimens over 2″ can go an 8x8x14” Terrestrial Enclosure.Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.
Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.
In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it’s own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it’s liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.
Spiderlings will often desire to create their own home by excavating a burrow. A tarantula with this talent and preference for tunneling is referred to as an obligate burrower. To encourage this natural behavior we recommend semi-moist substrate at least twice, and ideally three times as deep as the tarantulas DLS. The 2.25 x 2.25 x 4.5” - Terrestrial Kit , 4x4x6” - Terrestrial Kit - Magnetic Lock and the 4x4x5 Classic Porthole Can all be all assembled up to encourage burrowing.
Water: Larger spiders 2” and over should be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.
Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it’s prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched “pinhead” rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found HERE.