The Top 10 Mistakes New Tarantula Keepers Make (And How to Avoid Them!)

Welcome to the wonderful world of tarantulas!

Whether this is your first tarantula or you’re adding another little weirdo to your collection, there are a few things worth knowing to help your new pet settle in, stay healthy, and thrive.

Tarantulas are fascinating animals, but their needs and behaviors can be very different from those of more traditional pets. Understanding these differences can save you a lot of unnecessary worry (and save your tarantula a lot of unnecessary stress).

So, without further ado, here are my top 10 tips for new tarantula keepers!

#1. Tarantulas Need Time to “Settle In”

The first week in a new home is an important adjustment period that shouldn’t be ignored or overlooked.

One of the hardest things for beginners is allowing their new tarantula time to settle in. I understand the excitement of getting a new pet, followed by the equally intense disappointment when that pet doesn’t eat right out of the box or shortly after arrival.

But a little understanding of your tarantula’s needs can make both a happy tarantula and a happy keeper!

Under normal circumstances, most of my collection eats only once a week. If something else is going on, such as an upcoming molt or adjusting to a new home, a tarantula may take considerably longer before it’s ready for a meal.

Do not offer prey immediately upon arrival. If you’ve already offered food, remove any uneaten feeders as soon as possible.

Instead, place your tarantula in a quiet location with minimal disturbance and low to no direct light. A temperature of approximately 69–76°F is a reasonable starting point for many species, although individual temperature requirements vary.

Make sure your tarantula has access to water in the meantime. Depending on the species and size, this may mean providing a shallow, wide water dish, misting an appropriate area of the enclosure, or both.

Why Won’t It Eat? Isn’t It Hungry After the Trip?

I know the first thing I want to do after getting off an airplane is gorge myself on some real food. But let’s try looking at things from the tarantula’s perspective!

Your tarantula has probably spent most of its life in the same enclosure. Then, seemingly out of nowhere, it’s wrapped in paper towels, placed in a vial or cup, bounced around on a truck, loaded onto a plane, and delivered to a completely unfamiliar location.

It doesn’t know where it is, what happened, or how to get back home. Everything is unfamiliar, and it has no reason to know whether this new environment is safe.

From its perspective, it may as well have been abducted by aliens.

Tarantulas have relatively poor eyesight and rely heavily on other senses to navigate their surroundings. Gradually, your tarantula will begin exploring its new home and laying down silk as it goes. Those silk trails can help it sense activity around its environment.

If left undisturbed, your tarantula can begin to discover that although it can’t return to its old home, this new place isn’t so bad, either. It’s quiet, appropriately dark, and free of the unfamiliar animals and other potential threats that might make it feel vulnerable.

Eventually, it may begin moving substrate, creating a burrow, constructing a tube web, or adopting a hide.

And then, once it’s settled in and looking hungry, you can try offering a meal!

Some tarantulas will hang around the entrance to their burrows or hides, waiting for an unsuspecting meal to wander a little too close. Others may show no obvious signs of hunger at all.

On average, allow about a week for your tarantula to settle in before offering food, although some will be ready sooner and others will need longer. Age, species, individual temperament, and other factors can all influence this timeline.

Be patient. Your tarantula isn’t broken just because it skipped dinner!

#2. Feeding: Bigger Isn’t Always Better!

It’s important to offer appropriately sized prey.

If the feeder is too small, your tarantula may have difficulty locating or successfully capturing it. If it’s too large, your tarantula may have difficulty overpowering it, potentially causing unnecessary stress or even injury.

As a general guideline, prey for spiderlings should be no longer than the spiderling’s body length. As tarantulas grow, the size of their prey relative to their overall body size generally decreases.

For adults, we recommend starting with prey approximately the same size as, or smaller than, the length of the carapace (the hard upper portion of the cephalothorax).

These are guidelines rather than absolute rules, and different species and individual tarantulas may have different feeding abilities. When in doubt, start small!

We do our best to include feeder recommendations in the description of every tarantula we sell. If you have questions about what to feed your new pet, please contact us before ordering. We’re happy to help!

What Should I Feed My Tarantula?

Ideally, your new tarantula should initially receive the same type of prey it’s accustomed to eating.

Introducing a different feeder may take a little getting used to. However, as long as the prey is appropriately sized and suitable for the species, a healthy tarantula may eventually accept something new when it’s ready to eat.

Just remember that healthy tarantulas don’t eat every day like many mammals do. They can refuse meals for extended periods, sometimes for weeks or even months, depending on their age, species, condition, and reproductive or molting status.

A tarantula refusing food isn’t necessarily a cause for concern!

As a general rule, I feed approximately 95% of my collection on a weekly rotation. That means everyone gets fed a maximum of once a week.

I’ll often skip a week or two (or more) if a tarantula is gaining weight too quickly, doesn’t appear hungry, or shows signs of premolt.

If your tarantula doesn’t eat its prey within 12–24 hours, remove the feeder and try again in another 3–6 days, provided the tarantula isn’t showing signs of an impending molt.

If your tarantula is molting, do not leave live feeders in the enclosure. Wait until the molt is complete and the new exoskeleton has had sufficient time to harden before resuming feeding.

What If My Tarantula Won’t Eat?

If your tarantula has been consistently shy or refusing food despite having sufficient time to settle in, and it otherwise appears healthy and isn’t in premolt, you might try offering a pre-killed feeder.

Sometimes, removing the need to chase and capture prey is enough to encourage a reluctant tarantula to take a meal.

Of course, persistent food refusal can also be completely normal, depending on the individual. Consider its body condition, age, species, and other behaviors rather than assuming it must be hungry.

One final but very important point: always obtain feeders from a reputable, verified source. Never feed your tarantula wild-caught insects. Wild prey may have been exposed to pesticides or carry parasites and other potential hazards. 

#3. Misting & Water: Finding the Right Balance

Water requirements vary considerably between species, so it’s important to understand the needs of your particular tarantula.

For species that benefit from some substrate moisture, maintaining an appropriate moisture gradient can be helpful. Rather than soaking the entire enclosure, we recommend that new keepers start by moistening one corner. This allows your tarantula to choose between relatively moist and dry areas while you learn its preferences.

Some species require more moisture than others, while certain arid-adapted species need predominantly dry substrate. Research your species rather than assuming all tarantulas have the same requirements.

Depending on the species and enclosure, light misting may also provide opportunities for your tarantula to drink droplets from the enclosure walls.

Does My Tarantula Need a Water Dish?

For very small spiderlings, approximately under 2 inches in leg span, we generally don’t recommend a conventional water dish. Appropriate moisture and access to small water droplets can be more practical, provided the species’ needs are met.

Once your tarantula is large enough, a shallow, wide water dish is an excellent addition.

Make sure the dish is accessible and kept clean, and refill it as needed.

What Kind of Water Should I Use?

Please be mindful of the water you’re providing.

Tap and well water can contain dissolved minerals, disinfectants, and other substances that may be undesirable for sensitive invertebrates. Because water quality varies by location, we use reverse osmosis (RO) water for our tarantulas.

I strongly recommend using appropriately prepared, clean water rather than assuming that water safe for humans is automatically ideal for your tarantula.

#4. Housing: Your Tarantula Needs a Proper Home!

Providing an appropriate enclosure is one of the most important things you can do for your tarantula.

You’ll want an enclosure that’s appropriately sized, secure, well ventilated, and designed around your tarantula’s particular needs.

We do our best to include enclosure recommendations in the description of every tarantula we sell. If you have questions, please contact us before ordering!

Don’t Put a Tiny Spiderling in an Adult Enclosure

Spiderlings should be housed in appropriately sized spiderling enclosures rather than being placed directly into a large adult enclosure.

Very small tarantulas can be difficult to monitor in oversized enclosures, and finding uneaten prey or monitoring feeding can become unnecessarily complicated.

Kritter Keepers and similar enclosures are generally not our first choice for tarantulas. Depending on the model, the ventilation holes may be large enough for small spiderlings to escape.

The 7-dram vials we use for shipping can work well as temporary housing for appropriately sized spiderlings when properly prepared, but they are shipping containers, not ready-to-use permanent enclosures. Make sure any enclosure you use has appropriate ventilation, sufficient space, and a secure lid.

Avoid Screen Lids for Larger Tarantulas. Screen lids can pose a serious risk to larger tarantulas. Their feet and claws can become caught in the mesh, potentially resulting in damaged or severed limbs. Significant injury and blood loss can be fatal.

Fine mesh may be suitable for very small spiderlings and juveniles, but for larger specimens, we recommend secure, appropriately designed enclosures with solid lids and suitable ventilation.

Temperature: Please Don’t Cook Your Tarantula!

Never use a heat lamp or place a tarantula enclosure where it will receive direct sunlight.

Even if the room itself seems comfortable, sunlight can quickly heat a small enclosure to dangerous temperatures. The greenhouse effect is very real, and your tarantula cannot open a window or turn on the air conditioning.

We also generally advise against heat pads, which can create dangerous localized hot spots and make it difficult for a tarantula to escape excessive heat.

For most commonly kept species, ordinary household temperatures are often adequate, but species-specific requirements matter.

If your home gets particularly cold in winter, you may want to use a suitable, temperature-stable room to house your collection. Some species tolerate cooler conditions better than others.

For example, I wouldn’t personally want to keep Avicularia purpurea in temperatures in the 60s°F for extended periods, whereas many Aphonopelma species are more tolerant of cooler conditions.

Research your species and avoid sudden temperature fluctuations.

Don’t Put Your Tarantula on a Subwoofer

Okay, perhaps that deserves its own heading.

Tarantulas are sensitive to vibrations, and a shelf that constantly vibrates from loud speakers, pumps, or other equipment may disturb them.

Choose a quiet, stable location away from excessive vibration, direct sunlight, and temperature extremes.

Your tarantula doesn’t need a home theater system. It needs a safe place to be a tarantula.

#5. Choose a Tarantula That’s a Good Fit for You!

Not every tarantula is suitable for every keeper, and that’s perfectly okay.

Please do your research before ordering. We generally recommend that beginners start with a New World species with a leg span at the very least 1–1.5 inches DLS.

The larger size makes the tarantula easier to observe, monitor, and feed than a tiny spiderling. Our beginner section is a great place to start!

Popular Beginner-Friendly Genera

Some of our most popular beginner recommendations include species from the following genera:

• Brachypelma: Including B. hamorii (Mexican Red Knee), B. albopilosum (Curly Hair), B. auratum (Flame Knee), B. baumgarteni, B. klaasi (Mexican Pink), and others.
• Grammostola: Including G. pulchra (Brazilian Black), G. pulchripes (Chaco Golden Knee), G. porteri (commonly sold as the Chilean Rose Hair), and others.
• Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens: Also known as the Green Bottle Blue, or GBB. These tarantulas are popular for their gorgeous coloration, impressive webbing, relatively fast growth, and often enthusiastic feeding responses.
• Other popular choices: Acanthoscurria, Aphonopelma, Euathlus, Lasiodora, and Nhandu.

Avicularia and Caribena species can also be excellent choices for beginners when they’re established juveniles or larger, provided their specific husbandry requirements are met.

Remember that a genus isn’t a guarantee of temperament or care requirements. Individual tarantulas can vary, and even experienced keepers occasionally encounter a specimen that doesn’t read the care manual.

A Note About Mature Males

Mature male tarantulas are often not the best choice for someone looking for a long-lived pet. After their ultimate molt, males of many species spend much of their time searching for a mate. They may wander more frequently, become less interested in food, and be more difficult to keep in a conventional enclosure.

Unfortunately, mature males also have a limited remaining lifespan, although longevity varies by species.

Young, immature males of slower-growing species can make wonderful pets. They often look and behave much like their female siblings until they reach maturity.

And when a boy finally matures, I think it is only fair that his keeper can help him find a date!

Of course, mature males can still be fascinating animals to keep and observe. Just make sure you understand what you’re getting into before ordering one.

#6. Don’t Disturb Your Tarantula Just Because You Can’t See It!

This one is especially important for beginners.

A new keeper may look into the enclosure, fail to find the tarantula, and immediately assume something has gone terribly wrong.

Cue the frantic search.

The hide is removed. The substrate is excavated. The enclosure is taken apart. And somewhere in the middle of all this chaos, a perfectly healthy spiderling is wondering why its entire world is suddenly being demolished.

Please don’t do this!

Tarantulas are naturally secretive animals. Depending on the species, age, and individual, they may spend days, weeks, or even longer hidden away in a burrow or retreat.

A tarantula might disappear because it’s settling in, preparing to molt, digesting a meal, avoiding disturbance, or simply doing what tarantulas do.

You don’t need to see your tarantula every day for it to be healthy.

Very small spiderlings can be particularly difficult to keep track of, which is one of many reasons I recommend that beginners start with a somewhat larger specimen.

If your tarantula disappears underground, resist the temptation to dig it out. Continue providing appropriate care, maintain the enclosure as needed, and monitor for signs that something is wrong without unnecessarily disturbing the animal.

If it is healthy and simply hiding, there’s a good chance it will emerge when it feels safe or hungry.

Remember: a tarantula hiding in its burrow isn’t necessarily missing. It may simply have better things to do than entertain you.

#7. Handling: They’re Observational Pets, and That’s Okay!

I consider tarantulas observational pets, although plenty of people (including my own mother) seem to think otherwise.

When I first entered the hobby, I bought my first tarantula thinking I would handle it.

That idea didn’t last long.

I quickly realized how much stress handling caused my C. versicolor. It disturbed the little guy, damaged his webbing, and introduced unnecessary risks of injury... Then there were the urticating hairs.

At first, I barely noticed them. Eventually, I developed a reaction, and the itchy skin and red spots all over my hands made handling considerably less appealing. Over time, my sensitivity became progressively worse. These days, if I get urticating hairs flicked at me, I can be itching for days. Fun times!

I don’t handle my tarantulas except when absolutely necessary, such as during emergencies, rehousing, packing, or breeding.

I do not recommend handling tarantulas for either your safety or theirs. Tarantulas are not domesticated animals, and their reactions can be unpredictable. Even a seemingly calm tarantula can suddenly bolt, jump, or otherwise move unexpectedly.

A fall from even a relatively modest height can cause serious injury or death. Their bodies are not designed to survive being dropped, and handling creates risks that simply aren’t necessary for enjoying them.

Besides, there’s so much to appreciate without picking one up!

Depending on the species, you might have a fascinating little dirt-mover, an enthusiastic web builder, or an animal that constructs elaborate tube webs.

You might even have a pet hole.

And then, once a week, that pet hole suddenly turns into a blur of legs and fangs when it catches its food.

Honestly, that one second of feeding excitement can make an entire week of staring at a hole worthwhile!

Why risk handling when you can enjoy all of that from the safety of the enclosure?

Still Want to Handle Your Tarantula?

If you choose to handle a tarantula despite the risks, understand that no method can make handling completely safe.

A gentle response to a soft paintbrush or similar object does not guarantee that a tarantula will remain calm when picked up.

Never handle a tarantula standing or sitting at a height. Keep it close to the floor, in a secure area where it cannot fall far or escape into an inaccessible location. Avoid sudden movements, and never force an unwilling tarantula out of its retreat.

Some species have medically significant venom, and these should always be observed from a safe distance.

Please consider what’s best for your tarantula before deciding whether handling is worth the risk.

You don’t need to hold an animal to have a meaningful relationship with it. Sometimes, the best way to appreciate a creature is to let it be exactly what it is.

#8. Molting: Hands Off!

Molting is one of the most vulnerable periods in a tarantula’s life.

To grow, a tarantula must shed its old exoskeleton and allow its new one to harden. This process can take hours, while recovery and hardening can take days to weeks, depending on the animal’s age and species.

During this time, the tarantula is exceptionally vulnerable.

Its new exoskeleton is soft, and its fangs are not immediately ready for use. It cannot defend itself normally, and its body is susceptible to injury.

Never leave live feeders roaming freely in an enclosure with a tarantula that may be molting. Crickets and other prey items can injure a vulnerable tarantula, sometimes with fatal consequences.

If you suspect your tarantula is in premolt or actively molting, stop offering food and remove any uneaten live prey without disturbing the spider.

If your tarantula is actively molting, do not move, poke, or otherwise disturb it unless an intervention is absolutely necessary to address an immediate danger (such as a cricket taking advantage of the opportunity) Never move the enclosure of a molting tarantula. Even a small jolt at the wrong time can be fatal. 

Once the molt is complete, allow sufficient time for the new exoskeleton and fangs to harden before offering food. The necessary waiting period varies with the tarantula’s size and species, so don’t rush this step.

A tarantula refusing food, becoming sluggish, or spending more time in its retreat may be preparing to molt. These behaviors don’t always indicate premolt, but they are good reasons to pause feeding and observe.

Patience is especially important here.

Your tarantula doesn’t need a cheerleading squad. It needs peace and quiet while it changes clothes.

#9. Pesticides, Mold & Mildew: Hidden Hazards

Tarantulas are sensitive invertebrates, and environmental hazards can be difficult to identify until something goes wrong. Pesticides, contaminated water, inappropriate environmental conditions, and certain household contaminants can all pose risks.

Pesticides and Household Chemicals:

Potential sources of pesticide exposure include:

• A neighbor having their home tented or treated with pesticides.
• Insecticides or bug bombs used inside the home.
• Outdoor pesticides carried indoors on shoes.
• Pesticides drifting through open windows or doors.
• Flea and tick products used on household pets.
• Treatments for bedbugs, ants, or other household pests.

Be especially careful with products applied to cats and dogs. Some flea and tick treatments can be highly toxic to invertebrates, and residues may be transferred to enclosures through contact with treated animals, hands, or surfaces.

If your home or a neighboring property is scheduled for pesticide treatment, take precautions to prevent your tarantulas from being exposed. Depending on the treatment, this may require moving the collection to a safe location.

Never assume that a product is harmless to tarantulas simply because it is safe to use around people or other pets.

Mold and Mildew:

Mold and mildew can also become problematic, particularly when enclosures are kept excessively wet or ventilation is inadequate. Some mold growth may occur naturally in bioactive or organic environments, but persistent, excessive growth can indicate that conditions need attention.

Make sure your enclosure has appropriate ventilation and moisture levels for the species you’re keeping. Avoid allowing unsuitable substrate to remain waterlogged, and investigate persistent mold or unusual odors rather than ignoring them.

We’ve seen tarantula keepers encounter health problems within their collections in association with environmental issues, including mold and mildew in the home.

The important thing is to maintain a clean, appropriate environment and investigate potential hazards before they become a problem.

Your tarantula may be small, but that doesn’t mean its environment requires any less attention.

#10. Read and Follow the Live Arrival & Health Guarantee Terms!

And finally, we come to the subject that probably causes me more frustration than anything else about running a tarantula business. My Live Arrival Guarantee (LAG) and associated health guarantee terms are designed to protect both our customers and the animals we ship.

We want your tarantula to arrive safely, settle into its new home, and thrive. If something goes wrong that is covered by our guarantee, we want you to be able to contact us and receive the assistance you’re entitled to.

However, you must follow the guarantee terms to qualify for coverage.

Our shipping policy specifies the applicable reporting deadlines, which vary depending on the delivery method. An extended health guarantee is also available when the specified requirements are met, including submitting a photograph of the tarantula rehoused within the required timeframes. Please read the current shipping policy carefully before placing your order, as the applicable terms and requirements are what determine your coverage.

Why Are These Terms So Important?

I will honor our published guarantee when its requirements are met. In return, customers must follow the applicable terms and report any covered issues within the specified timeframe.

Unfortunately, some customers don’t follow the reporting requirements and then expect us to replace an animal that died after being left outside in extreme temperatures, or otherwise exposed to conditions that could have been avoided. By the time I hear about it, the applicable guarantee window has passed.

…And then comes the expectation that we should simply absorb the cost and send another animal.

I want to be clear about something: these are living animals, not disposable products.

I personally pack and ship these tarantulas with care. Many have been in my collection for months or years. I’ve invested time and effort into keeping them healthy, feeding them, maintaining their enclosures, and making sure they’re ready for their new homes.

When one of those animals dies unnecessarily, it’s very upsetting...And when a customer ignores the very terms designed to protect them and the tarantulas, then expects me to cover the resulting loss regardless, to say it’s incredibly frustrating is an understatement. 

If I make exceptions to the guarantee requirements on a case-by-case basis, I also have to consider fairness to every other customer who followed those requirements. If I were to cover every loss regardless of the circumstances, I would effectively have no meaningful guarantee terms at all, and the costs would eventually have to be reflected in my prices.

That’s not fair to responsible customers, and it doesn’t make for a sustainable business.

Most importantly, it doesn’t help the animal.

Please Don’t Be That Customer.

I mean this sincerely.

If you aren’t willing to read and follow the shipping and Live Arrival Guarantee terms, please don’t order from me. I don’t want your money in exchange for a dead tarantula, an avoidable loss, and an argument over terms that were available to read before you placed your order.

That’s a lousy trade for everyone involved, especially the tarantula.

The good news is that these problems are preventable!

If you have concerns about delivery conditions, your schedule, the weather, or the safety of your shipment, please contact me before placing your order. I’m happy to discuss possible arrangements, including hold-for-pickup options at suitable locations or coordinating shipping around specific circumstances when possible.

I want your tarantula to arrive safely, and we want you to have the protection of my Live Arrival and extended health guarantees.

Please help me make that happen by understanding the terms before ordering and following the required steps if you ever need to make a claim.

I put a lot of love, time, and care into the animals I sell. I want them to have good homes, and I want the people who buy from us to have a positive experience.

That’s why this matters so much to me.

 

One Last Thing: I’m Here to Help!

Keeping tarantulas is a wonderfully rewarding hobby, but there’s always something new to learn.

Whether you’re trying to figure out why your spiderling won’t eat, wondering whether it’s preparing to molt, or trying to choose the right enclosure, please don’t hesitate to reach out if you have questions.

I want you to succeed, and we want your tarantulas to thrive!

A little research, some patience, and an understanding of your tarantula’s needs can make all the difference.

And remember: sometimes, the best thing you can do for your new tarantula is absolutely nothing.

Give it a safe home, provide appropriate care, and let it be a tarantula.

Happy keeping!